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This is wonderfully filling, easy to make, pretty to look at, and nice going down. It's the barley, of course--such a nice consistency to that ancient cereal grain. I like it with a dark, rich beef stock--which highlighted the vegetable colors so well--but a vegetable stock or even water is also good. Serve hot as a light meal or a substantial first course to 4-6 people, ideally with hunks of bread and lots of butter and cheese. It's great with beer.

• 6 Tablespoons pearl barley, rinsed in cold water
• 3 cups beef or vegetable stock, or water
• 1 onion, diced
• 3 carrots, diced
• 2 stalks celery with leaves, diced
• 5 mushrooms, diced
• 3 cups beef or vegetable stock, or water
• 4 Tablespoons butter
• salt and pepper

Garnish: thick sour cream

Bring 3 cups of stock or water to a boil in a saucepan, add rinsed barley, then reduce heat and simmer for an hour, until tender.

Bring the remaining 3 cups of stock or water to a boil in a large saucepan, add the onion, carrot, celery, and mushrooms, reduce heat, and simmer until tender--from 30-45 minutes.

When ready to serve, pour the barley-broth in to the vegetables, toss in the butter, salt and pepper to taste, and bring to a fast boil. Ladle into bowls and swirl big spoonsful of sour cream into each serving. Pass hunks of bread with lots of butter and cheese.